Monday, September 29, 2014

Version 2.0 Mrs. Fitz-Inspired Crocheted Mini Mitts - Bulkier Yarn- Outlander Free Pattern





My first version of these mitts (from an earlier post) was worked in Malabrigo Mecha, which is classified as bulky yarn. I decided to make a pair in another bulky yarn, also by Malabrigo, called “Chunky”. The difference in the size of these yarns - though they are in the same weight class and even made by the same company -  is significant. “Mecha” gets you 130 yards per 100 grams. “Chunky” gets you 100 yards per 100 grams. 

These seem like boring mathematical details when you’re itching to crochet up something, but I had to alter the original pattern in order to get correct results, so it does indeed make a difference and goes to show that the weight system is only a guideline.


Other changes in this 2.0 pattern also include a cleaner join where the color change occurs (if you’re not changing colors it is still cleaner). There is a right hand and left hand, instead of an interchangeable set. This allows for better seam placement and I think may also lend a more comfortable fit.


Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts Crocheted Version 2.0





Hook: 5.5mm / US size i

Yarn: Malabrigo “Chunky” 100 yards/100 grams. 1 skein is *just* enough to make 1 pair in 1 solid color. I bought 2 skeins so I could combine colors. I have enough to make 2 pairs. Each mitt weights 50 grams, which is 50 yards of this yarn.

Size: Women’s Medium

Dimensions:

Flat before seaming: 9 in tall, 7 ½ in wide
Tube, after seaming: 9 in tall, 3 ½  in wide

Gauge: 14 sts and 12 rows = 4 inches



Boring Mumbo Jumbo section (same as version 1.0 except no Tr crochet)


Stitches used:

SC- single crochet
SC BLO – single crochet back loop only
SC FLO – single crochet front loop only
HDC BLO – half double crochet back loop only
HDC 3rd LIF – half double crochet through 3rd Loop In Front
DC – double crochet

Method:

The arm is worked first, then you turn your work ¼ turn clockwise to work the hand. The thumb is created by skipping stitches and making a chain as a bridge over those stitches. These mitts are worked flat and seamed when finishing.

Pattern Oddities and Necessary Blathering:

- I don’t skip the first stitch in every row when doing HDC. I treat it like a SC, really. This keeps edges tidy and less holey. Even though we’re seaming the edges, it’s not a place you want holes.
- I only ch1 for my turning chain on HDC.  I think the fabric looks nicer.
-The last stitch of every row is worked as you normal would (under both loops/legs). This keeps your edges tidy and less holey.
-The stitches for the arm are SC but worked in BLO and FLO. The hand portion is mostly HDC, but worked in either the BLO or through the 3rd loop in the front (LIF).
If the BLO, FLO, or LIF terms frighten you, here are some wonderful video explanations:
SC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsd8K5MghDQ                   


Ok enough with the boring mumbojumbo, let’s start crocheting!!


PATTERN

ARM:

Foundation Row:

1. ch  1 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 20, turn and go to Row 1)
2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 20 stitches, turn.

Row 1 (RS) – ch 1, SC BLO 19, SC in last st, turn. (20)
Row 2 (WS) – ch 1, SC FLO 19, SC in last st, turn. (20)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 21 rows.

This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.

BOTH HANDS:

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise and Ch 1, then work 23 HDC evenly into the edge, turn. Doing this row in the same color as the arm gives you a cleaner transition into the second color. Even if you are using all one color, it makes a nice clean transitional row. 

see how clean color change is on the left 2.0 compared to the right 1.0



Row 1 (WS) – If you are using a new color for hand, attach it now which counts as a ch 1 (cut your arm yarn, leaving 18 inch tail for seaming later). If you are not changing colors, then ch 1 and don’t cut your yarn. 
Not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3rd LIF all 23 sts, turn. (23)

Proceed to the left hand / right hand instructions.

LEFT HAND:

Row 2 (RS) – ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 5, DC 1, ch 5 , skip the 5 sts under them, DC 1, HDC BLO 10, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 12, HDC into back bumps of each ch (5), HDC LIF 5, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 5 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 6 (RS) – work as row 4
Row 7 (WS) – work as row 5

Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.

RIGHT HAND:

Row 2 (RS) - ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 11, DC 1, ch 5, skip the 5 sts under them, DC 1, HDC BLO 4, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 6, HDC into the back bumps of each ch (5), HDC LIF 11, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 5 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 6 (RS) – Work as row 4
Row 7 (WS) – Work as row 5

Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.


Finishing Instructions for both mitts:

Weave in ends. Fold mitts with RS out and sew your seams shut, then weave in your seam tail ends.

 Good work!!!!

Please let me know if you have any questions. This pattern has been checked and edited but if you think there are errors, let me know! :)







Pattern coming up today 9/29---


Saturday, September 27, 2014

Whats on Deck - ?

1. I just put up what i hope is a helpful video on fixing dropped stitches. (click here). I feel its important to know how to do this, and I think its one of the Top 5 Things a New Knitter should know. Please ask questions if anything is unclear.


2. I might be tweaking my Mrs. Fitz Crocheted Mitts pattern. I was happy with it when I posted it, but I learned a little trick which might improve it in a very small way. Maybe not. I also got a different yarn which is from the same weight category but has 30 yards less per skein. Might not sound like a big deal, but it is, so I'd like to see how it looks in this pattern, or how it might affect it. It's also plied, so it will look different.

3. Maybe another pair of Outlander-inspired mitts. I can't tell you what character yet. It's a secret. Sshhhhhh.


Monday, September 22, 2014

Mrs.Fitz Inspired Mini Mitts Crocheted Version Outlander - Free Pattern - Version 1.0






 Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts – Crochet Version 


Well it took a bit of meandering but I finally got results I'm happy with. I had recently put up a knitted pattern of Mrs. Fitz' mitts, and wanted to then work up a crocheted version. Initially I set out to make them as similar as possible (knit sts and crochet sts don't really look the same), but these sort of developed, and I like them, so I just went with the flow. They still look like something you could wear while toddling about the castle, but a bit dressier.

 Perhaps Mrs. Fitz would wear them on a night out.

I hope you like them too!

Hook:
5.5 mm / US size i

Yarn:  Malabrigo Mecha 

UPDATE***********This yarn is classified as bulky weight, but if you have yarn that is even bulkier, I will be posting an alteration of this pattern for a bigger gauge on 9/29/14***********

Malabrigo Mecha merino wool 1 skein (130 yards/100 grams) is just enough for 1 pair if doing in 1 color at this size. If you need to make pattern adjustments for a larger size, you would need 2 skeins/extra yardage. I got 2 skeins (260 yards) so I could combine 2 colors.

Size: Women’s medium

Dimensions:
Flat before seaming : 8 ½ in tall, 7 ¼ in wide
Tube, after seaming:  8 ½ in tall, 3 ¼ in wide

Gauge: 17 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches

Stitches used:

SC- single crochet
SC BLO – single crochet back loop only
SC FLO – single crochet front loop only
HDC BLO – half double crochet back loop only
HDC 3rd LIF – half double crochet through 3rd Loop In Front
DC – double crochet
TR – treble crochet


Method:

The arm is worked first, then you turn your work ¼ turn clockwise to work the hand. The thumb is created by skipping stitches and making a chain as a bridge over those stitches. These mitts are worked flat and seamed when finishing.

Pattern Oddities and Necessary Blathering:

- I don’t skip the first stitch in every row when doing HDC. I treat it like a SC, really. This keeps edges tidy and less holey. Even though we’re seaming the edges, it’s not a place you want holes.
- I only ch1 for my turning chain on HDC.  I think the fabric looks nicer.
-The last stitch of every row is worked as you normal would (under both loops/legs). This keeps your edges tidy and less holey.
-The stitches for the arm are SC but worked in BLO and FLO. The hand portion is mostly HDC, but worked in either the BLO or through the 3rd loop in the front (LIF).

If the BLO, FLO, or LIF terms frighten you, here are some wonderful video explanations:

SC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsd8K5MghDQ                   


PATTERN

  
ARM:

Foundation Row:


1.  Chain 25 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 24, turn and go to Row 1)
2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 24 stitches turn.

Row 1 (RS) - ch 1, SC BLO 23, regular SC in last st, turn (24)
Row 2 (WS) - ch 1, SC FLO 23, regular SC in last st, turn (24)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have 25 rows. 

At my gauge this was 7 ¼ inches tall in total including the foundation row. This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.

HAND:
If you are going to make your hand with a different color, cut your arm yarn now, leaving an 18 inch tail for seaming later. If all one color, don’t cut.

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise and attach new yarn color in the upper right hand stitch.

Work 27 HDC evenly into this edge, turn.
Row 1 (WS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3rd LIF for 26 sts, and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)
Row 2 (RS) – ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 8, DC 1, Tr 1, make a chain of 6, skip the 6 sts under them, Tr 1, DC 1, HDC BLO 8, HDC last st, turn. (27)

Left pic shows the stitches and the ch6 before the “jump” for the thumbhole. Right pic shows the completed Tr after the jump. Note the 6 skipped stitches. The Tr is worked into the 7th st.




Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3rd LIF 11 sts, HDC into the back bump of each ch st (6), HDC into the 3rd LIF 9 sts,  and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)
Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC BLO 26 sts, and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)
Row 5 (WS) – work as Row 1
Row 6 (RS) – work as Row 4

Repeat rows 5 and 6 until hand portion reaches 2 inches tall and ending on a RS row. Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.
Before you do your seam, however, weave in your ends. It’s just easier that way.


Right Side


Wrong side


Use clips while seaming



SEAMING:
Then, fold WS together. Using clips/locking stitch markers to line up the stitches and hold your work together while you seam is a good idea, removing as you approach them. Use them as checkpoints to make sure you are seaming equally so your mitt seams won’t be lopsided. I used a mattress stitch.

Here’s a good video if you need some help with that:

Weave in your seaming yarn tail ends.

PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK (with your toasty mitts on, of course).


This pattern has been tested and spot checked. Please alert me to any suspected errors, or if you have any questions at all. Project file can also be found on Ravelry.


Sunday, September 21, 2014

update on crocheted mrs fitz mini mitts


Still need to do some tweaking, but overall i'm happy with the result. i will put up pattern here and through ravelry when ready.

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Next Pattern in Progress: Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts Crocheted Version

i hope to have them done and the pattern written up this wknd. i'm using malabrigo mecha with I/5.5mm hook. :)

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Outlander Inspired Crocheted Claire Shrug





Hello all! Here is a crocheted version inspired by the shrug Claire was wearing when she first met Geillis. I posted a knitted version several posts back, and I used the same yarn for this one. The stitch pattern develops from alternating front-loop-only (FLO) and back-loop-only (BLO) rows all in HDC.
If you are a beginner don't let those terms scare you. Here are great videos by CrochetEverAfter to explain how to do the FLO and BLO in HDC.

 I hope you like it!


HOOK: J HOOK / 6.0 MM
YARN: ARAN WEIGHT - BERROCO PERUVIA COLORS 2 SKEINS (348 YARDS)
Gauge: 13 stitches and 11 rows = 4 inches
Size: Medium Women's
Dimensions: 12 inches tall, 33 inches wide

PATTERN:

Set up rows:

1. Chain 110 (or if you do a foundation row, work 109 FHDC, turn and go to Row 1)
2. Starting in the 2nd chain from your hook, work a row of HDC, turn (109 st)


DO NOT SKIP TO THE 2ND STITCH WHEN WORKING YOUR HDC'S FOR THE REMAINDER OF THIS PROJECT (why? because it looks better if you work into the first stitch, just like you would for a SC)

Row 1 (wrong side): Ch 1, Work HDC in BLO until you have 1 st left, do a HDC into that last stitch under both loops instead of just the BL, turn. (109 st)

Row 2 (right side) : Ch 1, Work HDC in FLO until you have 1 st left, do a HDC into that last stitch under both loops instead of just the FL, turn. (109 st)

why work that last HDC into both legs/loops at the end of every row? because your edges will look better than if you work that final stitch through the BL or FL

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 12 inch tall piece of fabric. For me this was 30 rows. End with a right side row (row 2). why end with a row 2? because it doesn't curl outwards like row 1 does.

Figure out how long you want your underarm seams to be. I used hair clips to hold the fabric while trying it on. My underarm seams were 5 inches. I did a simple seam, nothing fancy.

Weave in your ends.

Extra Notes and Stuff:

Pattern is also on Ravelry http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/claire-crocheted-shrug-starz-outlander-inspired

If you need to change the dimensions, like make the arms longer or the back longer, etc, you will need more yarn than what I used. I used up nearly the whole 2 skeins of my berroco on this, so if you are using this yarn and you wanted to make a bigger shrug, you would need 3 skeins. I estimated every row takes about 10 yards of yarn but don't hold me to that.

What if you like the wrong side better than the right side? Choose whatever side you like to face outwards. I prefer the right side stitches to face out, thats all. Its your shrug so you do what you want! :)


Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts Free Pattern - Outlander Inspired



These mitts are based on Mrs. Fitz's mitts from Starz Outlander, but just much shorter and looking a bit more modern with these colors. I was using up scrap yarn and the mismatching was intentional and very much a look that i enjoy. 

Hope you have lots of fun using odd bits of scrap yarn or whatever you like to make these. 

YARN: Malabrigo Mecha (Bulky)
YARDAGE: Sorry, having using scraps I don't know. Not much!
Needles: US 9 / 5mm
Gauge: 13 st = 4 inches, 19 rows = 4 inches

Size: I'm a medium/average, I'd reckon, and these fit perfectly. 

This pattern is how I made mine. Depending on your preferences and size, you can alter it easily. Experiment and have fun!

Knitted flat and then seamed. You make your thumbhole by not seaming that section.

PATTERN:

Cast on 22 stitches
Knit "stockinette" (knit on RS, purl on WS) for 6 inches, changing yarns as often as you please.
At 6 inches, start "garter stitches" which means you just knit every row for 1 1/2 inches.
Bind off, preferably with a stretchy type of bindoff, like Jeny's Superstretchy Bind off - here's a great video tutorial if you are interested.

Time to seam:  You probably want to weave in any ends at this point before you start seaming. I seamed with the mattress stitch, and here's a great video on that if you'd like to try it.

While seaming, keep trying it on. I cannot tell you exactly where to leave a thumbhole, or how big the thumbhole should be. (My thumbhole is about 2 inches long - you want to make sure you make it long enough so your thumb can move comfortably.)Seam up to that point, leave it unseamed where your thumb will be, then start a new seam for the hand. Weave in your ends.

Put them on and get a mug of hot cocoa!

Any questions just ask.

Pattern is on Ravelry as well.


Thursday, September 4, 2014

Sassenach Claire Outlander Crochet Cowl - Free Pattern


Don't i look smug! Well i was definitely feeling that way!

After sharing my knitted pattern of Claire's Cowl, quite a few people asked for a crocheted version. The knitted cowl is in garter stitch, of which there is no real equivalent in crochet. So after some experimenting and some results that were not quite what I wanted, I came up with this pattern, which I feel comes about as close as possible to the knitted version, both in appearance and drape. I really like it and I hope you do too!



My enigmatic look. Terrible isnt it.


Doubles nicely as a hood.


HOOK SIZE: 16mm/Q (big, yes)
YARN: Super bulky 212 yards (2 skeins)
GAUGE: 4 inches = 6 stitches
FINISHED SIZE: 12 inches wide, 14 inches tall

The yarn I used is Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick Super Bulky in Barley. It is the same yarn I used for the knitted cowl. Two/2 skeins. Unlike the knitted cowl, this crocheted cowl is worked with one strand.

Key:

FDC = foundation double crochet
FPDC = front post double crochet
BPDC = back post double crochet
SS = slip stich

THIS PATTERN IS WORKED IN THE ROUND AS A TUBE.

There are 2 ways of starting, depending on your comfort level. You can do the traditional chain, or you can do a FDC. Either way you join for working in the round. Here is an excellent video about FDC by CrochetEverAfter on youtube: FDC how to

UPDATED: I did end up doing a crochetalong/tutorial. I hope you will find it helpful. Click here.

PATTERN:

Chain 34 (or FDC 34)

SS to your first chain to join, making sure your length of chains is not twisted. (again, if you do FDC just join to the chain and skip to Round 2)

Round 1: Ch 2 (yes. 2. not 3. serves as first DC), DC into FIRST chain from the hook (do not skip chains as you normally would), and DC in all remaining chains. (34)

Round 2 and all subsequent rounds: *FPDC, BPDC* (34 stitches every round, starting with FPDC and ending with BPDC)

Do not turn your work, do not make turning chains at the beginning of the rounds. Just keep going around and around and around like a spiral.

Finish, weave in ends, and enjoy!

EXTRA NOTES AND STUFF:

I continued mine until I reached about 14 inches height, which was 16 rounds for me. It was long enough to act as a hood/snood. I still had enough yarn left over to do probably another 2 rounds. (I believe it takes 12 yards of this yarn to make 1 round, but don't hold me to that).

If you want to make a chain ("turning chain" though you are not turning) at the end of every round, I don't think that would be a problem. I did not do it that way and was happy with the way it turned out.

You don't have to make it as tall as I have. You control how tall you want to make this. Just keep going around until you want to stop. At my gauge, 1 skein of yarn would make at least 8 inches tall cowl. It's up to you! Since there is no bind off row with crochet, you just stop wherever you want.

Any questions just ask!

This pattern is also on Ravelry.


 "och, its too beg for meh, lass!" says Pocket Jamie



Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Claire's Cowl - Crochet Version - Sassenach Outlander


UPDATE: Just a quick note that I finished working up my version of Claire's Cowl in crochet. This is intended to resemble, as closely as possible, her chunky knit cowl which is in garter stitch. 

It is very squishy and floppy like the knit version. I spent a lot of time these past few days experimenting with different crochet stitches and construction, and I learned a lot. I am very pleased with the results!

I will write up the pattern and provide better pics (daylight helps) in the next day or two. Will also post on Ravelry.

:)


Sunday, August 31, 2014

Working on it.........Claire's Cowl in Crochet

Just FYI for those folks asking for a crochet translation of the knitted Claire cowl pattern. I'm working on it.............pics and a pattern coming soon, I hope.....

Claire Starz Outlander Sassenach Shrug Free Pattern

Here is my interpretation of the shrug that Claire was wearing when she met Geillis in episode 2. Hers was in variegated browns, but I had this wonderful blue/green mix which I found was perfect.

Yarn: Berroco Peruvia Colors, 1 skein
Needle: 9 mm / Size 13 (Worked flat but on circular 29 inch needles)
The one skein of Berroco Peruvia Colors was JUST enough to make this shrug at these dimensions. Keep in mind this yarn which is not springy on its own, is knitted with fairly large needles, and therefore allows for stretch and give.
Finished dimensions: Approx 10 inches tall, 33 inches long





THE PATTERN:
Cast on 83 stitches. (I used long tail method)
Knit 47 rows.
Bind off (I did the basic bind off, loosely)
Fold in half lengthwise.
Make armholes. For me, that was about 7 inches of seaming for each arm. I used a simple whip stitch.
Weave in ends.
Go pick some fresh herbs from the potager garden.
If I were to knit this again, I think I’d spring for the 2nd skein and make it longer down the back by knitting another 10 rows or so. The arms would be bigger as well, which I don't really need, but that would be an overall result. 
Can be worn as a makeshift cowl if you put one arm inside the other.
The knitty gritty: I had quite a few false starts with this pattern. I knew it was simple enough in construction - garter stitch, worked flat, seamed armholes. I estimated the gauge but when I knitted it up, it just didn’t look right. Three types of yarn, a variety of needle sizes, and a headache later, I realized it was the YARN. I believe this shrug resembles Claire’s best when a heavy-worsted 1-ply roving/yarn is used. The stitches are clear. There are no ‘ply shadows’. I learned a lot from this project.
If you have any questions or comments please let me know! :)
Listed on Ravelry as well.

Sassenach Claire Starz Outlander Cowl Free Pattern

I have tried to duplicate the cowl we see Claire wearing in the promo pics for Starz’s “Outlander” series.

Yarn: Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick, 2 skeins (color shown is Barley)
Needles: 25mm / US 50 (i worked this up on my straights which are 13 inches long)
This yarn is super bulky/6 and two strands are held together for this pattern. I have found tucking the left needle between my side and left elbow is helpful when working the stitches.
Took me a while to figure out the dimensions. I either made it too big or too small, wasn’t sure if it should be long enough to allow for it to be twisted and doubled up. I’m still not sure if there is some shaping on her cowl, but, in the end, this is what I came up with:
( My pattern is not twisted/doubled. You just slip it over your noggin and go about your business.)

PATTERN: (also listed on Ravelry if you want to queue)

WITH TWO STRANDS HELD TOGETHER
Cast on 17 stitches. i used long tail method. leave yourself a 60-inch tail and you should be fine.
Knit every row. i knitted with a relaxed tension. not tight, not sloppy. this yarn on these huge needles give it lovely drape.
Knit until you’ve got around 26-27 inches of fabric, which for me was around 40 rows or so.
Bind off - strive for your cast-on edge to match your bind-off edge, if you can. you will be seaming them together and it will look better if they have the same tension.
By the way, i think its easier to weave in your cast-on tail now, before seaming.
Leave yourself a good 40 inches or so on your bind-off tail to seam the two ends together. This video might be helpful

:)
If you have any questions or comments please let me know!